Main Article Content

Abstract

This study aimed to evaluate the physical properties and in vitro sunscreen activity (SPF) of sea buckthorn oil cream formulated with varying ratios of Tween 80 and Span 80. Sunscreen products derived from natural sources, such as sea buckthorn oil (Hippophae rhamnoides L.), offer photoprotection through UV-B absorption and antioxidant activity from bioactive carotenoids and polyphenols, serving as safer alternatives to synthetic UV filters. Four cream formulations (F1–F4) containing 7% sea buckthorn oil and varied Tween 80:Span 80 ratios (3:1, 2:1, 1:2, and 1:3) were prepared using the melting method and analyzed for physical stability (organoleptic, homogeneity, pH, spreadability, adhesion, viscosity) and SPF values via UV-Vis spectrophotometry using the Mansur equation. All formulations produced homogeneous, deep-yellow creams with safe skin pH (6.65–6.80), acceptable spreadability (4.50–5.10 cm), and consistent viscosity (29–54.66 dPas). Adhesion significantly varied (1.37–2.70 s, ). Spectrophotometric testing demonstrated strong photoprotective activity across formulations, with Formula 1 (3:1 ratio) achieving the highest SPF value of  (ultra protection) due to enhanced release of active chromophores from the hydrophilic matrix. In conclusion, sea buckthorn oil cream formulated with a 3:1 Tween 80:Span 80 ratio provides an effective natural sunscreen with favorable physical characteristics.

Keywords

Cream surfactant oil sunscreen

Article Details

Author Biography

Ayu Shabrina, Universitas Wahid Hasyim

Departemen Farmasetika dan Teknologi Farmasi

References

  1. Aghnia, N. D., (2022), Stabilitas Nilai SPF Mikroemulsi Minyak Sea Buckthorn dengan Variasi Tween 80, Skripsi, Fakultas Farmasi, Universitas Wahid Hasyim, Semarang.
  2. Ais, R. M., (2022), Stabilitas Nilai SPF Mikroemulsi Minyak Sea Buckthorn dengan Variasi Isopropil Miristat, Skripsi, Fakultas Farmasi, Universitas Wahid Hasyim, Semarang.
  3. Beveridge, T., Li, T.S.C., Oomah, B.O., and Smith, A., (1999), Research and Biotechnology in Sea Buckthorn, Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry, 47 (9), pp. 3480-3488.
  4. BPOM, (2017), Pedoman Penandaan Tabir Surya, Badan Pengawas Obat dan Makanan Republik Indonesia, Jakarta, hal. 1-2.
  5. Food and Drug Administration (FDA), (2013), Sunscreen: How to Help Protect Your Skin from the Sun, FDA Department of Health and Human Services, USA.
  6. Ismail, I., Handayany, G.N., Wahyuni, D., dan Juliaandri, (2014), Formulasi dan Penentuan Nilai SPF (Sun Protecting Factor) Sediaan Krim Tabir Surya Ekstrak Etanol Daun Kemangi (Ocimum sanctum L.), Jurnal Farmasi FIK UINAM, 2 (8), hal. 1-8.
  7. Kallio, H., Yang, B., and Peippi, P., (2002), Effects of different origins and harvesting time on vitamin C, tocopherols and tocotrienols in sea buckthorn (Hippophae rhamnoides L.) berries, Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry, 50 (21), pp. 6136-6142.
  8. Kalwat Igielska, J., Wawrzyńczak, A., and Nowak, I., (2012), β-Carotene as an exemplary carotenoid and its application in cosmetic industry, Journal Faculty of Chemistry, 66 (2), pp. 140-144.
  9. Karina, N., (2015), Penentuan Nilai Sun Protection Factor (SPF) Ekstrak Dan Fraksi Rimpang Lengkuas (Alpinia galanga) Sebagai Tabir Surya Dengan Metode Spektrofotometri UV-Vis, Skripsi, Program Studi Farmasi Fakultas Kedokteran Universitas Tanjungpura, Pontianak.
  10. Khan, B. A., Akhtar, N., Mahmood, T., Shoaib, H. M., Qayum, M., and Saeed, T., (2011), Effects of Antioxidants and Flavonoids of Sea Buckthorn on Skin Whitening and Skin Erythema, Asian Journal of Chemistry, 23 (2), pp. 903-906.
  11. Manda, F. L., (2011), Optimasi Tween 80 dan Span 80 Sebagai Emulgator Serta Carbopol Sebagai Gelling Agent Dalam Sediaan Emulgel Photoprotector Ekstrak Teh Hijau (Camellia sinensis L.): Aplikasi Desain Faktorial, Skripsi, Jurusan Farmasi Universitas Sanata Dharma, Yogyakarta.
  12. Mansur, J. S., Breder, M. N. R., Mansur, M. C. A., dan Azulay, R. D., (1986), Determination of Sun Protection Factor of Sunscreens by Ultraviolet Spectrophotometry, Anais Brasileiros de Dermatologia, 61, pp. 121-124.
  13. Mbanga, L., Mulenga, M., Mpiana, P. T., Bokolo, K., Mumbwa, M., and Mvingu, K., (2014), Determination of Sun Protection Factor (SPF) of Some Body Creams and Lotions Marketed in Kinshasa by Ultraviolet Spectrophotometry, International Journal of Advanced Research in Chemical Science, 1 (8), pp. 7-13.
  14. Rahmadany, S. E., Nida, A. Z., Fithria, R. F., dan Shabrina, A., (2021), Uji Iritasi Dan Aktivitas Tabir Surya Secara In Vitro Minyak Biji Pala Dalam Sistem Mikroemulsi Dengan Variasi Tween 80-Etanol, Jurnal Ilmu Farmasi dan Farmasi Klinik (JIFFK), 18 (2), hal. 47-54.
  15. Sandhi, B. G. F., Cahyani, I. M., Purwanto, U. R. E., dan Indriyanti, E., (2022), Optimasi Span 80 dan Tween 80 Dalam Krim Alas Bedak Dibenzalaseton Sebagai Tabir Surya, Jurnal Farmasi Medica/Pharmacy Medical Journal (PMJ), 5 (1), hal. 14-19.
  16. Sandmann, G., (2019), Antioxidant Protection from UV- and Light-Stress Related to Carotenoid Structures, Antioxidants, 8 (7), p. 219.
  17. Tamara, A., Harjanti, R., dan Nilawati, A., (2020), Evaluasi Aktivitas Tabir Surya Krim Ekstrak Etanol Buah Tomat Secara In Vitro dan In Vivo, Prosiding Seminar Nasional Uninus, 3, hal. 102-110.
  18. Tudor, C., Bohn, T., Noguer, M., Diaconeasa, Z., Bunea, A., Socaciu, C., and Pintea, A., (2020), Carotenoid Composition and In Vitro Antioxidant and Photoprotective Activities of Sea Buckthorn (Hippophae rhamnoides L.) Berry Oils, Food Chemistry, 329, p. 127149.
  19. Walter, K. A., (2002), Dermatological and Transdermal Formulation, Marcel Dekker, Inc., New York.
  20. Zielińska, A., and Nowak, I., (2020), Abundance of Active Ingredients in Sea Buckthorn Oil (Hippophae rhamnoides L.) for Cosmetic and Pharmaceutical Applications, Lipids in Health and Disease, 16 (1), pp. 1–11